The Lighting

Hi guys it’s Steve,

today I want to talk a little bit about what I imagined for the lighting of the build. This is going to be very interesting.

As you might know RGB Lighting is getting more and more popular and there are tons of gadgets out there that provide great features and good looks. My build will have a fully RGB back-lid housing and the acrylic sheets underneath the components as well. Yesterday I was looking for some great solutions and came across this one here:

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NZXT HUE+

It has awesome lighting features and I think the colors blend perfectly, it is easy to install and exactly what I thought would be great for my build.

Furthermore I have decided to cut out the logos of the companies that “provided” the components and use colored single LEDs to illuminate them in their specific color.

To make the colors even more vivid my radiator fans will have Thermaltake Riing 12 RGB fans on them. They have “only” 256 color variations but I think the difference is negligible. Have a look here:

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Thermaltake Riing 12 RGB

I am really looking forward to making this possible and can’t wait!

Keep it up my friends

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Lighting

The GPUs

Hi guys this is Steve,

today I want to share with you my plans for the GPU setup of this build. This one is kind of special because it will be the most expensive and most important part of the build.

My plans for the GPUs are to mount them facing up from the wooden board, which means that I need those beloved PCIe riser cables/cards. I know there is a lot of controversy out there and I want to share with you what I have found out so far:

 

1. PCIe risers in general do not effect performance!

Let me clarify this a bit. PCIe risers in general do nothing more than extend the length of the interconnect between PCIe slot and graphics card. What matters though, and this is very important, is that they need to be shielded by default. It can work that you buy cheap unshielded ones and wrap them in aluminium foil BUT there is absolutely no guarantee and btw it looks like crap. Take the extra money and invest in shielded ones from a renown manufacturer like 3M. But keep in mind: The longer your cable gets the higher the chances of EMI interrupting your signal gets even with high quality cables.

2. The cross-sectional area matters.

I have read a forum post of a guy who claimed that when a GPU is put under load, it pulls power from the PCIe slot as well, which I can understand. He said, that when the cross-sectional area increases, conductance decreases and that you want to look for cables with lower AWG (American Wire Gauge) rating. I found out that 3M cables have an AWG rating of 30. When searching for riser cables I came across a company that is located in Taiwan called Li-Heat. They claim their wires have an AWG 28, are shielded and can transfer PCIe signals over long distances. Proof can be found here although I personally don’t believe everything I see.

My build will feature the 2nd best of the 4 upcoming Pascals which will presumably be called GTX 1080. Depending on the price and performance per card, how they will scale and what new features they will have, I will either just get 1 and leave space for a second one later on or they are kicking ass and I will be buying two of them at once. Of course this also depends on the price of the i7 6850K when launched.

So now the post is getting too long and I’ll leave for today. I made and AutoCAD drawing of the Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming which will be used as a placeholder for the 1080s in my future plans. But have a look yourself: Gigabyte GTX 980Ti G1 Gaming (PNG)Gigabyte GTX 980Ti G1 Gaming (DWG).

Gigabyte GTX 980Ti G1 Gaming copy
Gigabyte GTX 980Ti G1 Gaming in mm

So guys there you have it, keep it up!

Steve

 

 

The GPUs

The mainboard

Hi guys it’s me again.

So I have started a new thread on the LinusTechTips forum where I will plan and log the process of this build. See here: €5000 wall-mounted PC

4 days ago I started creating the first AutoCAD 2016 drawings for the millimeter measured ATX mainboard standard. I want to remind you that I just started learning AutoCAD and that my drawings may look a bit newbish to the professional eye but that was not the point of making the drawing.

To be able to mount the mainboard correctly onto the acrylic sheet and the wooden mounting plate, you need to know exactly where the holes are located and how far they are apart. If you are using inches etc. you could refer to this specifications-sheet: ATX Standard If you use the non-retarded version of measuring (just kidding all systems are beautiful) then please feel free to use this: ATX Standard (PNG)ATX Standard (DWG)

ATX Motherboard copy
ATX Specification in mm

I hope this will make it simpler for you and me during the building process. I will use this to let the people that will cut and drill the acrylic for me know, how they have to do it, but I hope that I will find somebody who can lend me his equipment because I think cutting the acrylic myself will make the build more personal.

As always, keep it up!

Steve

The mainboard